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Good dyno preparation is important because it will save us time and therefore – you money on the day.
If a car arrives for the dyno and it has not been sufficiently prepared you will have to accept responsibility for this and either schedule another appointment or pay to have the work done by us. You may also lose your dyno deposit if we can’t fill the slot at short notice with another job.
If we are heavily booked at the time we will not be able to fix the car on the day, so it would have to join the queue.
Any known problems with the car will show up on the dyno, so bring spares or fix the problems before arriving. Unforeseen problems are only expected on new builds that have not yet been tested. In this instance the dyno is the first test and this is when any issues will show up.
The main rule of thumb is that a car that is ready to be driven full throttle on the track/road is also ready for the dyno. If the car is not mapped for the modifications we don’t suggest you try it. The main point is you would not set off on a lap of the track or up the road with fuel lines not secured and so on. So why would the dyno be any different.
The following is a list of guidelines to help with your preparation. If you are unable to perform any of the necessary checks please inform us in advance that they are not done. Any extra labour undertaken by us will be charged by the hour.
- To put the car on the dyno, the wheels are removed and the hubs are bolted onto four packs. So bring your wheel lock key and let us know if your lug nuts are an unusual thread.
- Fill out the disclaimer form in as much detail as possible and bring it on the day. A blank form will be emailed to you with your booking confirmation email.
- Fill the tank with the fuel you want the car to run on.
- Make sure all fluids are at the correct level (engine oil, coolant, gear lubricants)
- Make sure there are no fluid leaks (including exhaust).
- Make sure the coolant is bled and the radiator fans work.
- Check that the drive train is in good condition (wheel bearings, suspension)
- Make sure all sensors are working. Brings spares for any that have given trouble previously.
- Check clearance levels if your car is very low. You may need to remove side skirts, or front bumber.
- Prepare the exhaust for our wideband O2 sensor.
- Be able to provide your gear ratio if requested.
Forced induction: Supercharged and Turbocharged engines
- Test for any boost leaks (you can buy a boost leak tester quite cheaply). Boost leaks are very common and boost controllers cannot operate correctly if there is a leak.
- Record fuel pressure. First at idle, then when running continuously, and at idle again.
- All hoses must be firmly secured at their ends and showing no signs of wear or damage.
- Make sure boost control and wastegate are properly fitted.
- Make sure turbo and exhaust are securely attached.
- Make sure ignition and fuel systems can supply the levels of boost you want (useful spares – spark plugs, ignitors, coils can help diagnose any issues).
Standalone ecus / new ecu installs:
- Have the ignition timing marked or recorded for the vehicle.
- Make sure all sensors are working properly. If we have to do this you will be charged for the extra time taken.
- Make sure the ecu is not locked.
- Ensure all wiring is properly grounded and protected from heat.
We are here to help with any issues you cannot fix yourselves. However, a rushed or badly prepared car almost always results in frustration for everyone concerned. Bigger bills than anticipated and a lot of unnecessary time wasted.
Please download the below .pdf files and if possible print and fill them out in advance. If this is not possible they will be available when your drop your car in.
We look forward to helping you achieve the best results possible for you and your car.